Whether it’s due to the revival of brands like Diesel, the mainstreaming of new musical genres like hyperpop, the resurgence of films like 2001: A Space Odyssey (1998) and shows like Black Mirror, or the constant creation of unbelievable technology like spatial computing or ChatGPT, our culture—always, but particularly in recent years—has been captivated by the idea of the future.
Looking at fashion, we haven’t seen this popularity in futuristic styles since the spunky space-age silhouettes of the 1960s. Futuristic fashion takes many forms; it can look anything from weatherproofed Stormtrooper-esque ensembles to liquid-like fabrics to a pair of metallic silver Sambas. But the girlies of Manhattan didn’t just start wearing silver shoes out of nowhere—we’ve been seeing this general trend towards space-inspired, avant-garde fashion in recent years—it’s just evolved.
But to understand how we got here in fashion today, we need to look a few years back. Since much of the world spent the year 2020 in clothes we couldn’t be caught dead wearing outside of the house, I’m starting in 2021. Emerging from the pandemic, the year 2021 brought forth bolder and louder fashion. The Y2K aesthetic, which drew from styles of the late ‘90s and early ‘00s, popularized trends like bright printed pants, sweater vests, and rhinestones. But more importantly, the fashion trend also captured the technological excitement of the time and made technology fashionable. Cher’s outfits in Clueless (1995) were iconic but what were just as iconic was her brick-sized cell phone and computerized closet. Films like Clueless (1995), Legally Blonde (2001), and Mean Girls (2004), influenced the style of the era, but so did The Matrix(1999).
The sci-fi, action flick brought forth not only novel technology but also sleek and shiny styles and avant-garde cuts. Contrasting the bright and bubbly, the fashion of the film comprised of skinny sunglasses, floor-sweeping black trench coats, and skintight latex getups.
Reinvigorated by Troye Sivan and Charli xcx’s hit song “1999,” which drew heavily from The Matrix’s visual style, the edgy all-black look became commonplace in cities like New York, Berlin, and beyond. Though bold, the look comprises of all-black basics and distinctive yet highly versatile pieces, like black leather boots, a black long trench, and black skinny sunglasses. Even for those not dressed in the entire look, a pair of black Dr. Martens or a long black trench (like the one Kylie Jenner’s brand Khy released just months ago), are all nods to the futurism of the Y2K aesthetic. Poster child of dark, edgy, and futuristic fashion in the 2020s is none other than Julia Fox. Fox’s comeback was marked by her relationship with the controversial artist Ye and equally controversial choices in fashion and makeup. Thick black eye makeup and Barbarella-inspired outfits became her signature look from 2022 to 2023, wearing her daring outfits even at the grocery store or when running errands with her son. Fox’s influence of dressing in futuristic avant-garde styles for everyday is clear with the trends in patent black jackets and extraterrestrial cuts.
The brand that comes to mind when thinking of this movement is, without a doubt, Diesel. Since the 2020s, the brand has been synonymous with futuristic fashion, from its edgy logo, metallic bags, and iconic runway choices (who could forget Ella Snyder strutting down the Fall ’22 runway, looking like something that emerged out of the galaxy with matching fire-engine red hair and painted body). But Diesel didn’t always have the brand value it holds today, so when did it become the brand we know today?
From its inception, Diesel has positioned itself as the provocative and rebellious “alternative to the established luxury market,” a belief the brand still holds true today. Though what you bought was plain denim, what they sold was audacity, strength, and confidence. They accomplished this through memorable and highly acclaimed advertisements, like their 1991 “Guides for Successful Living” campaign, which won a prestigious international advertising award of the highest distinction. Disregarding the marketing conventions of the time, they created an ad campaign that featured two male sailors kissing, a nod to “Don’t ask, Don’t tell,” the U.S. government policy that prohibited openly gay Americans from enlisting in the military. Messaging like this falls perfectly in place with liberal Gen Z values today.
With branding and values aligned with youth culture, what ultimately brought Diesel back to relevance was doing what they do best—creating memorable images. Under the creative direction of Y/Project director Glenn Martens, Diesel further refined their brand by carefully choosing who represented it. Diesel moments that have purchased real estate in my brain are Kylie Jenner in a skintight metallic blue Diesel turtleneck mini, swinging a matching Diesel bag, or Ella Snyder’s firey red galaxy mutant moment on the runway. Selecting King Kylie, the edgier Jenner sister, and Snyder, a trans model and ex-Parsons student, draws the audiences of those controversial personalities to the brand but also deters those who don’t like them or what they stand for. It sends the message that this is who and what our brand finds cool, and if you disagree with that, you’re not our customer. But for fans of the King Kylie Tumblr era, it felt like finally being spoken to by an established brand.
In 2024, a few years into the futuristic revival, brands like Balenciaga, Courrèges, Fendi, Iris van Herpen, Paco Rabanne, and Rick Owens are now leading the movement, but Diesel’s success with reviving futuristic fashion for everyday attire is still to thank. Moreover, we continue to see cultural influences through media, technology, and celebrities permeate fashion. (Hello? Charli’s brat alien green.) Fashion is ever-evolving but interest and excitement about the future is a trend not going away anytime soon.
Written by Kristi Yang
Photography: Mark Bluemle, @markbluemle
Creative Director: Mark Bluemle, Sophia Querrazzi
Talent: Celeste Nieves, @dreamingofceleste
Styling: Sophia Querrazzi
Grey Bodysuit designed by Cassidy Haley Productions, @cassidyhaleyproductions
Fashion from Diamond Durant, @diamondurant
MUA: Celeste Nieves
Props from Abracadabranyc
Nails designed by Jili Marlin
Set Designer: Mark Bluemle